Liulichang Antiques Street

To the south of the kiln is bridge which separates the tile works in to two sections. To the east of the bridge, the street is narrow and for the most part, the shops there sell spectacles, metal flues for household use, and daily necessities. To the west of the bridge, the road is wider, and besides the regular bookshops, there are shops selling antiques and other curios, shops specializing in calligraphy books, scroll mounters, professional scribes, engravers of name seals and wooden blocks for painting, as well as shops where stone tablets are inscribed. Here also are shops offering the articles needed by a scholar participating in the imperial examinations-brushed, paper, ink bottles, paperweights - Li Wenzao (1736 - 1795)

Liulichang is an antique street with a long history. It was already known for its antiques when Li Wenzao wrote about it more than two hundred years ago. Even during the Qianlong emperor's reign in the 18th century, the street was thriving. Unfortunately, it is only a pale echo of its past glory. A tourist trap that is past its prime, the 750 meter long street stretches across Nanxinhua Street and is located south of Hepingmen (Peace) Gate within walking distance of the Hepingmen Subway Station.

In Ming and Qing times, Liulichang was a favorite haunt for scholars, painters and calligraphers that gathered there to write, compile and purchase books, as well as to paint and compose poetry. Into the 20th century, the street continued to play an important role and there were still over 170 shops in 1949 when the communists took over. During the fifties and sixties the street's shops were collectivized and became state run enterprises. Most of the small shops were eaten up by these larger state owned enterprises. With China's opening, Liulichang again became important, the government 'restored' the shops and created a 15 meter pedestrian street. It played an important role as a tourist street that sold curios and 'antiques' to foreigners. Now it looks a bit rough around the edges. The buildings don't compare well with more recent governmental renewal projects and the antiques being sold are the same overpriced items that you can find at almost any tourist stop.

Now the real attraction of the street are the disappearing hutongs (alleyways) nearby. Some of the oldest and best preserved working class hutongs can be found within a five minute walk of the street (just follow the east side of Liulichang and make a left at the end of the street to start your journey). See our article on Hutongs and visit before all of these alleys are destroyed in the name of progress.

Nothing in the shops is truly antique and the cultural accuracy and quality of the goods is more than suspect. But knowing that, fun can still be had by bargaining for something that strikes your fancy. Get them to make the first price offer and then offer 10% or less of what they asked. If after lots of bargaining it ends up costing 30% of the starting price, you are still getting robbed but it is a good compromise that will make all parties happy. Remember nothing is real or old, but they can still be great knick-knacks if you like them.