Huaihai Road
The Champs-Elysées of Shanghai
(from Xizang Rd. to Huashan Rd.)
Phone: (021) 5383-2171
Hours: Shops - 9:30 AM - 10:00 PM Daily
Admission: Free to shop but pricy to buy!
Nearest Public Transit: Huangpi Nan Rd., Shanxi Nan Rd. and Changshu Rd Stations, Line 1
Built in 1901, the six-kilometer-long Huai Hai Road is now named to commemorate the Huai Hai Battle during the Chinese Civil War but the street continues to maintain its legacy as the center of fashionable shopping that it was under its original name Avenue Joffre. That's because the street was the center of what was once the French concession or colonial holding of Shanghai. For the first half of the century the street was the center of French culture in Shanghai. Today, the road has become synonymous with what is trendy and fashionable. While the stretch between Shan Xi Road and Xi Zang Road is the busiest section (and best for people-watching), this commercial street contains more than 400 shops, restaurants and businesses. The remnants of French architecture give the street its cosmopolitan charm. Many nearby attractions add to its appeal, including the Sun Yatsen Former Residence, Xintiandi and the tree lined streets of the French concession itself.
The top of Huaihai Road east of the Chongqing elevated road is full of powerful skyscrapers, expensive shopping malls and next to the Xintiandi shopping complex. Please refer to Xintiandi and Huangpi Road for more information on this section.
Once past the Chongqing elevated road, Huaihai starts to recapture more of the charm of its historic routes. Make sure to head down Sinan Road and see some of the last grand old homes of the city. Here you also can stop by Sun Yatsen and Zhou Enlai's former residences. There is also a small but gorgeous park - Fuxing Park that is great for people watching on a sunny and warm day.
Other old French Concession Streets can get you away from the busy main street. Explore the area between Julu Lu to the north and Huai Hai Lu running through the center, plus Mao Ming Lu and surrounding area to the south of Huai Hai Lu. Pleasant tree-lined streets and local Shanghainese bustle, combined with a growing number of trendy boutiques and restaurants. Chang Le Lu and Xin Le Lu are rapidly becoming the places to find small designer clothing shops. Interesting architecture built with French and Belgian money and showing mixed Chinese-European styles are still prevalent. Make sure to admire Shanghai's Art Deco residential architecture, reputedly the world's largest (although not the most well-kept). Most historic buildings have a bronze plaque that details their original use. The area sandwiched between Fuxing Rd. and Huaihai Rd. is particularly interesting with a sprinkling of tucked-away shops and discreet cafes, a refreshing alternative to the city's generally megalomaniac streetscape.
Ruijin 2nd Road is a tree-lined boulevard is the heart of the French Concession, where you can experience the real Shanghai longtang (a narrow alley from house to house, which is a distinctive Shanghai architecture style). A 2,700-square-foot-house, mixed with Chinese and European style, is located on Rui Jin 2nd Road. Built in 1933, this three story complex was once the home of the Jewish wine merchant H.L. Menken.
Of course Huaihai Road itself is worth strolling down. As the main commercial street it is now almost completely international brand stores. There is a huge Parksons from Hong Kong, Sojo from Japan, as well as over 10 (on last count) Starbucks to make sure you don't go thirsty. But the real fun on the street is the people watching. Beyond the tourists that make there way down the street there are plenty of locals doing a bit of shopping as well. Notice the high school kids kitted out with the latest fashion sipping on their lattes, older men buying their young mistresses $1000 handbags, or local hucksters trying to lure the tourists in to buy pirated DVDs or clothing. No matter where you look there is a story unfolding and even without Chinese language lessons you can catch a glimpse.
If you want to do some shopping yourself check out Chang Le Lu and Xin Le Lu - these two parallel east-west streets and the surrounding neighborhood are gradually acquiring some outstanding boutiques and shops. An Fu Lu also has some interesting boutiques (and bars and restaurants) both in the eastern and western ends of the street. Garden Books - near to the junction of Chang Le Lu and Shanxi Nan Lu - good selection of China travel guides, as well as coffee and ice cream. Their monthly bric-a-brac sales are a popular local social event.
HuaiHai also provides much of the cities nightlife with bar streets and pedestrian malls always within walking distance. Hengshan Road and Maoming Road both offer late night refreshments, sometimes live music, and a barfull of new friends. Xintiandi has a lively nightlife as well although only for those with plenty of cash to spare. Pick up a copy of City Weekend or That's Shanghai or other local free magazines in English for local listings.
